# Condition Report Cheat Sheet

> **Autowalk Resource** | Decode auction condition reports like a 15-year dealer.  
> Download more free tools at [getautowalk.com](https://getautowalk.com)

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## Common Abbreviations

| Abbreviation | Meaning | What It Actually Means |
|--------------|---------|----------------------|
| **RUNS** | Engine runs | It started at the auction. Doesn't mean it runs well, idles smooth, or drives. |
| **DRIVES** | Vehicle drives | It moved under its own power in the lot. Doesn't mean highway-ready. |
| **ENG** | Engine damage | Could be cosmetic (cover crack) or internal (knock, smoke). Read the notes. |
| **MECH** | Mechanical damage | Usually suspension, steering, or drivetrain. Often expensive. |
| **BDY** | Body damage | Dents, scrapes, panel damage. Usually fixable. |
| **FRT** | Front damage | Impact zone. Check frame, radiator support, and airbag status. |
| **RR** | Rear damage | Trunk floor, bumper reinforcement, tail light panel. Often hidden. |
| **LS** | Left side | Driver side damage. |
| **RS** | Right side | Passenger side damage. |
| **UB** | Underbody damage | Frame, floor pan, fuel lines. Hard to photo. Hard to fix. |
| **WTR** | Water / flood | Run away unless you specialize in flood cars. Electrical gremlins forever. |
| **FR** | Fire damage | Usually total loss. Even "minor" fire melts wiring. |
| **THEFT** | Theft / stripped | Check what's missing: airbags, cats, wheels, radio, harness. |
| **VNDL** | Vandalism | Broken glass, keyed panels, interior damage. Usually cosmetic but adds up. |
| **STR** | Stripped | Parts removed. Verify what's gone before you bid. |
| **KEYS** | Keys present / missing | No keys = tow + locksmith + possible immobilizer reprogram. Budget $150-400. |
| **AIRB** | Airbag deployed | Replacement cost: $300-1,500 per bag. Plus module, plus clock spring, plus inspection. |
| **FRAME** | Frame damage | Structural. Some states won't title it. Some shops won't touch it. Know before you bid. |

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## Damage Severity Ratings

| Rating | Meaning | Dealer Action |
|--------|---------|---------------|
| **Minor** | Cosmetic, < $500 to fix | Bid confidently. Add $300-500 to recon. |
| **Moderate** | Panel replacement, glass, lights | Add $800-2,000 recon. Check parts availability. |
| **Major** | Structural, mechanical, airbags | Add $3,000+ recon. Verify frame shop availability. Consider walking. |
| **Total Loss** | Insurer declared it uneconomical to repair | Salvage or rebuilt title. Know your state's rules. Some buyers won't touch it. |

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## What "Engine Starts" Really Means

| Phrase | Translation |
|--------|-------------|
| "Engine starts" | It turned over and ran for 30 seconds on a jump box. |
| "Engine runs" | It idled. May shake, knock, or smoke. |
| "Engine runs and drives" | It moved in the lot. Transmission may slip. Brakes may be soft. |
| "Engine runs and drives — lot drive only" | Do not assume highway speed. Assume it needs everything. |
| "Engine runs and drives — confirmed" | Better. Still means nothing about alignment, overheating, or codes. |
| "Engine does not start" | Could be battery, could be seized. Budget worst case. |

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## Red Flags: Walk Away

| Red Flag | Why It Matters |
|----------|--------------|
| **Flood / water line visible** | Electrical corrosion shows up months later. You'll be the warranty. |
| **Frame damage + airbag deployed** | Structural + safety system. Double expensive. Double liability. |
| **Engine knock + metal in oil** | Bottom end is gone. Rebuild or replace. Not a $500 fix. |
| **Transmission slips in all gears** | Replacement, not repair. $2,000-4,000. |
| **Missing catalytic converters** | Required for emissions in most states. $800-2,500 to replace. |
| **Certificate of Destruction** | Cannot be retitled for road use in most states. Parts only. |
| **Odometer discrepancy** | Legal headache. Buyers assume rollback. Hard to sell. |
| **Multiple prior salvage titles** | Value drops 30-50%. Some lenders won't finance. |
| **Burn smell + melted plastic** | Fire damage, even if small. Wiring harness replacement = $2,000+. |
| **No keys + no title** | You may never drive it. Some auctions sell "bill of sale only." Know what that means. |

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## Pro Tips

1. **Screenshot the CR before you bid.** Auctions update them. Your dispute needs proof.
2. **Cross-check the VIN with Carfax/AutoCheck.** The CR is the auction's opinion. History is history.
3. **Call the auction yard.** Ask specific questions: "Does it have keys?" "Any new damage since photos?" "Why was it totaled?"
4. **Assume the worst, bid for the best.** If you budget for a transmission rebuild and it only needs a sensor, you just made extra profit.

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